Redemptive Meatloaf

The moral imagination continues to stagger at the devastation in the Indian Ocean. How to respond? Send money, of course, and then send more more money. But tonight, relief efforts are foundering, and thousands of personal losses there will never be redeemed.

Again, what to do? My answer for this evening: make meatloaf for friends. It's a small breakwater against the tide of mortality, a ritual act of sensual pleasure to hold off the darkness.

It's difficult to feel morose while the onions are sizzling, or when you're wrist-deep in a cool, oozy mixture of crushed tomatoes, diced bread, whole milk, oregano, marjoram, parmesan, and five pounds of fresh ground beef. Pat it into loaves, cover with bacon, more crushed tomatoes, parsley.

It's cooking now. Up next: peas, mashed potatoes, and cornbread. Eat hearty, friends. We're glad you're here. Happy new year.